Choose the right plants for your exposure
1) First evaluate where you will be planting your annual flowers in order to be successful. If the area that you want to plant flowers is shady, stick with shade tolerant flowers. Don’t try to put sun-loving annuals such as geranium, marigold or petunia in shady areas. No matter how well you care for them, they will fail. The importance of this first consideration cannot be emphasized enough. Put the right plant in the right location.
2) Buy healthy plants. This may seem obvious but you want plants that are well rooted in their pots. Pop one plant out of its cell and have a look. It should be thick with roots. Look for annuals that are thick and sturdy as opposed to tall and leggy. Foliage should be showing signs of rapid growth and rich in color. With this observation you’ll know the grower has been feeding your baby annuals regularly.
3) Prepare your soil like you would a vegetable garden. Add a good organic compost to your proposed flower bed. Incorporate four to six inches into the soil with a tiller or turn over with a shovel. Make sure that the soil is well mixed. This step is crucial to root growth. Rapidly growing annuals require healthy root development to support healthy, heavy blooming plants.
4) Water! Never let your newly planted annuals dry out. If your plants become stressed from lack of water, they could be set back days if not weeks in growth. Water thoroughly and deeply. This will encourage deeper root growth. Never overwater as this can be as bad if not worse than under watering. More plants die from overwatering than not.
5) Feed! Most people forget that annual flowers require food like any plant. Since annual flowers are constantly growing all season long, a good slow release fertilizer is great for them. There are many brands to choose from and timing of release. A good slow release fertilizer will offer feeding over a 3-4 month period. Supplemental feedings throughout the season with a liquid fertilizer at half strength will make your annuals explode with color. Although all other steps are important for a successful floral display, this one tip will put your display over the top this season! Happy planting!

This weekend promises to be the first really great weekend this spring in Ohio, weather speaking that is! What should you do if you’re itching to get out and work in the yard? Here are five things we recommend … Enjoy!

1. Aerate.  This helps manage dead grass, leaves and winter debris, while also loosening all of that hardened and compacted soil.
2. The Great Clean Up. If you’ve got trees, they’ve likely shed branches this winter.  Picking up lingering leaves, dead grass and other “unmentionables” will make you feel accomplished, and your lawn look GREAT.
3. Start Fertilizing.  Hit your lawn with a nice dose of fertilizer to kick off the growing process. Read the directions! The correct amount you add to your lawn is imperative, as well as, how you apply the fertilizer.  Pick a hybrid blend of fertilizer, as it will release a little now — and save some for later too.
4. Apply Seed.  This is a great time to introduce some fresh cultivars of grass seed into your lawn.  Also, since we’re in the Spring season, the rains will do the trick in keeping the seed moist.
5. Call Us.  No one loves your lawn like we do.  If you’d like us to give you an estimate on managing the above and more — on routine cutting and maintenance … Or even bigger landscape architectural projects, we’d love to hear from you before the summer settles in and schedules book up with activities.  Think 876-BUCK.

The last revision to the map came in 1990. Now, the map has shifted most of the United States half a zone higher.  Where Ohio usually sat in a 5a-5c zone, Columbus now rests in a 6a cold hardiness zone.  The new map takes on many different factors to help establish which area should be zoned appropriately.  Data has been collected over a 30 year period from over 8,000 different weather stations.  New global positioning systems and new advances in computer technology have helped to accurately portray cold hardiness zones.  Other conditions such as elevation, urban heat effects and positioning of large bodies of water have all been taken into account.

This of course does not mean that plants need to be taken out and replaced.  If your plant has survived and flourished for years, it will more than likely continue to thrive in its current location.  This does not mean however that palm trees will endure the Ohio climate.  You must carefully look at the map and decide what plant bests suits your site.  Any nursery or qualified green industry professional should be able to help you to decide what plants will best suite your specific home and location.  The USDA ha added an interactive map where you can find your particular zone by zip code on their website http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/

Plan Now for your Spring Landscape Projects!

The days are getting shorter, the temperatures are getting colder, and the first winter snows are upon us. If you are like most people, spring seems like a long way off and landscaping is just about the last thing on your mind. Winter though is actually a great time to start planning for new springtime patio and landscape projects. It may also be a good time to dust off that set of plans you have in the closet that took a back seat to other home improvement projects this past summer. Often times the planning process is the most time consuming aspect of a project. If you wait until warm weather arrives in early spring to begin, your project may not be completed until mid summer. By starting to think about your landscape projects now, you will have plenty of time to work out all of the details of your plan with your landscape designer. When the weather breaks, you will be ready to go on the installation and you will have the entire summer to enjoy your new patio and landscaping!

Look for Plants That Stand Out in the Winter

When you think of winter, you think of Pine trees, Spruce trees, and Holly shrubs. While these plants, and other evergreens, are “the old stand-bys” for winter interest, there are many other plants that can really liven up your winter landscape. One such plant that is gaining in popularity is the Red Twig Dogwood (Cornus alba). Some cultivars of this plant have spring flowers, variegated foliage, and good fall color; but it is winter when they truly stand out! As the weather gets colder you will notice the brown stems beginning to turn red, with the newest stems having the most vibrant color. Another interesting selection is the Red Twig Dogwood’s cousin, the Yellow Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea ‘Silver & Gold’). Plants that maintain their berries through the winter provide a splash of color and also are attractive to many birds hunting for scarce winter food. The familiar Blue Holly (Ilex x meservae) has a deciduous relative, Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata), that maintains bright red berries on its bare branches throughout the winter. The Winter King Hawthorn (Crataegus viridis ‘Winter King’) is a great ornamental tree that also has red berries during the winter. The berries can be especially striking when viewed with a backdrop of Spruce trees!

Look for Plants That Stand Out in the Winter

When you think of winter, you think of Pine trees, Spruce trees, and Holly shrubs. While these plants, and other evergreens, are “the old stand-bys” for winter interest, there are many other plants that can really liven up your winter landscape. One such plant that is gaining in popularity is the Red Twig Dogwood (Cornus alba). Some cultivars of this plant have spring flowers, variegated foliage, and good fall color; but it is winter when they truly stand out! As the weather gets colder you will notice the brown stems beginning to turn red, with the newest stems having the most vibrant color. Another interesting selection is the Red Twig Dogwood’s cousin, the Yellow Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea ‘Silver & Gold’). Plants that maintain their berries through the winter provide a splash of color and also are attractive to many birds hunting for scarce winter food. The familiar Blue Holly (Ilex x meservae) has a deciduous relative, Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata), that maintains bright red berries on its bare branches throughout the winter. The Winter King Hawthorn (Crataegus viridis ‘Winter King’) is a great ornamental tree that also has red berries during the winter. The berries can be especially striking when viewed with a backdrop of Spruce trees!

Finish those Fall Clean-Ups

With the exception of some Oak trees and Pear trees, most deciduous trees have dropped there leaves. If you have not already, be sure to get rake all your leaves off the lawn or at least mulch them into the lawn with your lawn mower. Leaves can smother your lawn if left on through the entire winter and make it more susceptible to disease problems in the spring. A little work and preparation now and through the winter months can make a big impact on your landscape come spring. And if you are considering any patio or landscape projects for 2009, start planning for that now. Before you know it, you will be able to replace that hot chocolate in the house with a tall glass of iced tea on your new patio!

If you live in a home that has clean drinking water, consider yourself blessed. If your home has an automatic underground irrigation system, consider yourself immensely lucky. Although an automatic irrigation system helps to keep your plants alive, it could not and did not help with the affects of record heat. Even under automatic irrigation, many trees and shrubs exhibit scorched and partially dried leaves while some leafy perennial plants appeared as if someone took a blow-torch to them. Most soft perennials such as daylilies and hosta, for example, are very resilent and most of their foliage damage is purely cosmetic.  Your trees and shrubs on the otherhand may still be stressed from the excessive heat and drought. This years record breaking drought and scorching heat wave made this year a truly formidable year for woody plants to survive.

The absolute most important thing that you can do for your plants this fall is quite simple. Although it’s not free, the fix is about as cheap as it gets. Water. If you believe that your plants are losing leaves, going dormant and don’t need a drink, you couldn’t be more wrong. Your plants roots are very active in the fall storing water and nutrients for the cold winter months ahead. A dry plant that goes into the winter season dry may well not survive come springtime. A cold dry winter would spell diaster for already stressed trees and shrubs. So this fall, don’t forget to give your landscape a good thorough drink. Usually a soaker hose or a regular garden hose running at a slow trickle for a good hour will be sufficient for most younger trees. Shrubs will require less. Don’t forget your soft perennials too. Their roots and crown require moisture too!

There is absolutely no better time for lawn seeding than in the fall season. The exact timing will vary for different parts of the country but here in the Midwest, August though early October is the ideal time.  Fall lawn seeding is ideal for several reasons. Fall soil temperatures are much warmer which is ideal for germination and root growth.  Spring temperatures can often fluctuate wildly from extreme heat to below freezing temperatures.

Disease damaged dead spots are ideal for slice-seeding repair.

These temperature swings can quickly stunt and even kill new grass seedlings requiring the entire process to be redone in the fall. Seed germination is dependent upon warm soil conditions which are predominately warm and consistently warm in the fall.  Fall weather conditions are more conducive to having rainfall that will help provide adequate moisture levels needed for germination. This does not mean that supplementary irrigation and consistent irrigation will not be required to establish a new lawn. You must diligently keep new seed and seedlings moist at all times. Lastly, but an often overlooked fall benefit is that there is minimal weed seed in the air to compete with your new desirable turfgrass mix.  If your lawn has spots of bare soil, dead grass, and dry spots or simply appears like the Mohave Desert, then you should consider fall lawn seeding. Unfortunately, most people don’t think about seeding their lawns in the fall after drought, disease and insect damaged areas have been created throughout the summer growing season. Instead, most people think about spring lawn seeding which is much less than the ideal time to seed. The only other worst timing for seeding would be mid-summer in the extreme heat or late fall when the seed might germinate only to be killed by freezing temperatures.  

Thin lawn areas are renewed with slice-seeding

Does my lawn need to be completely torn out and start over?

Depending on the condition of your lawn, there are a variety of ways to make your lawn one in which you can be proud. If your lawn is thin or has some smaller bare areas, you should consider slice-seeding or overseeding. This can be done by a commercial contractor that has this specialty type of equipment or you can rent slice-seeders from select locations. If your lawn is a complete mess and you want to fix it immediately, perhaps sodding is your best option.

Slice-seeding in action. Note no damage to existing turf.

If you want to choose the exact type of turf seed that will be called your future lawn, maybe a complete lawn renovation is in order for your more discerning turf palette. For spotty, minor lawn problems, spot seeding with a little topsoil might be your solution. No matter which option you choose to repair your lawn, your decision should be based upon its current condition, your desired quality of your lawn and your patience, the availability of irrigation and of course, your budget. Lawn sodding is much more expensive than lawn seeding.

Why or why not use sod?

Sod is an instant lawn. Adding sod to your home lawn is like going to the hospital to pick up your newborn baby without having had nine months of gestation and prenatal

Lawn spot repair with sod

care. Instant lawn….instant baby!  Lawn sodding eliminates or at least minimizes any initial weed problems and reduces or eliminates erosion on slopes. Sod comes in different blends of grasses. The most common sod that you will encounter in the Midwest is grown from a blend of Kentucky bluegrasses. You should ask your sod supplier for the seed mix or blend from which your sod was grown. The downside to sodding is that you are not establishing the plant in the native soil from which it was grown. When you install sod, you are bringing in soil that is different than the native soil. This results in the root system wanting to stay in the soil from the sod and not move into your native soil. Many times, sodded lawns decline over five years due to the differences in soil types.

Core aeration and overseeding Don’t confuse core aeration with slice seeding or overseeding. Core aeration is the process of mechanically pulling up plugs of soil and thatch from your lawn. This technique reduces soil compaction, minimizes thatch accumulation, and will give you an overall healthier lawn. Core aeration combined with overseeding is an alternative to slice seeding because it combines aeration with the benefit of adding a select seed variety to your lawn. Core aeration combined with overseeding however will not produce the same results as a true slice seeding machine.

Fall is the time for turf. Kentucky bluegrass especially loves the warm days and cooler evenings of the fall season. With proper care and the right seed mix, you can have your lawn looking its best by late fall. A thick, dark green lawn is a beautiful canvas to fallen gold and red leaves of October.

You can help keep your house cool and your energy costs low with strategic placement of plant material.  Large deciduous shade trees planted on the South and West sides of your house can keep your home cool and reduce your air-conditioning expenses by as much as 50%.  (By using deciduous trees, when the leaves of your trees fall off in the fall you will still get the benefit of solar heating during the winter months!)  The shady area under a large tree can be up to 9 degrees cooler than the surrounding air so they can provide a welcome respite for you too as you work in the yard.  It is also a good idea to use trees and shrubs to shade your outdoor air-conditioning unit, but be sure not to plant so closely that you restrict air flow to the unit.  Maintaining proper air flow and shading your air conditioner will ensure that it runs as efficiently as possible.

When you are working outside in your yard be sure to drink plenty of fluids to prevent dehydration and possible heat stroke.  It is best to try to plan do your outdoor work in the morning or evening when temperatures are cooler, however if you plan to be outside working strenuously on a hot day, a good rule of thumb is to drink 4 to 8 ounces of water for every 15 minutes you work.  Do not wait until you feel thirsty as that is an early signal that your body is ALREADY dehydrated!  Stick to water and avoid sodas and alcohol as those can actually increase dehydration problems.  Be sure to continue drinking fluids even after you have come back indoors for the day to replenish what you lost sweating during your work.

Like you, your plants and lawn will also require more water in the summertime.  Although it is most important to make sure your plants get sufficient water whenever you can, the best time to water is in the early morning.  Afternoon watering is not efficient because so much of it is lost to evaporation before it even gets to the plant, and evening watering is not encouraged because it can create an environment more favorable for diseases that can harm your turf and plants.  Most turf and plant material will be fine if they receive 1” of water (rain or irrigation) every 7-10 days.  It is best to water deeply on a less frequent basis to make sure that plenty of moisture is reaching the root zone.  Frequent, but short watering encourages shallow root growth that is harmful to your lawn and plants over time and makes them far more likely to succumb to drought or disease in the future.  Any recently installed plant material will require even more water for several weeks while the roots get established, so pay special attention to those plantings to make sure your investment does not wither away!

Other ways to help your plants through the dry summer months include making sure you have a good mulch layer or groundcover plantings to cover your beds.  These will help retain soil moisture and also reduce the growth of weeds that complete with your landscape plants for precious water.  Spring and fall are the best times for planting, dividing, and transplanting perennials, so if those tasks are on your to-do list, you would be best off to wait until temperatures cool and rains increase in late August and September.  If you do plant now, just remember to be extra vigilant about watering.  Choose plant material that is drought tolerant so that they can withstand long periods of little rainfall without requiring extra work on your part to keep them hydrated.  Often native plants are most hardy because they have become adapted to our climate and weather patterns.  Mow your grass at a height of no less than 3” and leave the clippings on the lawn.  Unless you want to fertilize and water with the frequency of a golf course, you should not mow your personal lawn as though it was one!

One more very important tip is to protect your skin from the sun.  Skin cancers are the most common form of cancer in the United States and most of these are due to sun damage and are preventable.  You can get a sunburn even on a cloudy day, if you are outdoors long enough, so always wear sunscreen with at least an SPF 15 rating.  When you are working outside, wear a hat with a wide brim to protect your face and neck as an extra precaution.  Finally, seek the shade of a large tree or pergola over your patio from time to time to take a break; this will also help prevent heat exhaustion.

Spending time in the “Great Outdoors” is an American pastime; there is nothing like being outside on a sunny, warm summer day.  Whether you are at a ball game, on a boat, or just mowing the lawn, if you follow these simple tips, you can make sure that you and your landscape beat the heat this summer.  After all, you want to be sure that both you and your plants are in peak condition when it comes time for the bright colors of fall!

We all have the desire to create a beautiful curb appeal to our homes and are willing to purchase and place certain plant products in our yards and flower beds in order to satisfy our objective.  However, some of you green thumbs out there unknowingly place certain plant species in your yards that potentially could cause harm to your pet.  

A toxicant can be described as a substance that when introduced or applied to the body, it can by its inherent chemical properties, interfere with cellular function.  When an animal encounters any toxic substance, there are general physiological consequences that may result in response to ingestion.  Some of these consequences on a histological scale include the manipulation and alteration of cell membrane integrity.  The cell membrane is composed of a lipid bilayer with various ion channels that tightly regulate specific concentrations of certain materials within the cell, allowing some substances in- while keeping others out.  It is critical to keep this membrane intact; otherwise, there can be devastating physiological consequences.  When an animal ingests toxic material, there may be disruptions in this membrane that will inevitably lead to interference with receptor function as well as fluid and electrolyte movements.  Along with alterations in membrane integrity, cellular adipocytes – or fat cells, may accumulate within the cell which can push certain cellular organelles into the cell periphery and impede cellular function.  Your pet may have altered energy metabolism along with delayed or inactive protein synthesis.  Microscopically, alterations in cell growth patterns including neoplasia – or an abnormal mass of tissue may occur.  With these modifications to the variety of cells in the animal’s body, cell death will begin to occur whether it is uncontrolled cellular necrosis, or pre-programmed cellular apoptosis. 

Physically, you may see numerous abnormalities in your pet as a result of what is going on from the physiological standpoint. Signs of toxicosis may include, but are not limited to vomiting, diarrhea, depression or excitement, dilated pupils, convulsions, ataxia – or uncoordinated movements, hyper salivation – or excessive drooling, and general abdominal pain.

According to the ASPCA and the Animal Poison Control Center, plants were included in the top 10 pet toxins of 2010 (along with human medication, human food, insecticides, rodenticides, chocolate, household toxins, herbicides and outdoor toxins).  The following list is from the ASPCA and is comprised of a variety of common plants that could potentially harm your pet.

1- Sago Palm (indoor plant for hardiness Zone 5 within Ohio)

a. The sago palm is a plant that if ingested by your pet can result in detrimental side effects, such as gastrointestinal    abnormalities, seizures, and liver failure.

2- Lilies (Lilium species)

a. There is quite a variety of the lily species; however, it is the true lilies, Lilium, not the commonly planted ‘Daylily’, Hemerocallis, that is highly toxic to cats.  If a cat were to ingest even a small amount of the plant, it can result in acute kidney failure and possibly death.

b. The white Easter Lily is commonly displayed indoors during the Easter Season. Use caution with indoor cats.

3- Tulips

a. Tulips contain toxins that are specifically in the bulb portion of the plant.  If the bulb is ingested, it can result in irritation to the gastrointestinal tract and the esophagus as well.  More severe cases where a high amount of the bulb is ingested may result in variations in heart rate and respiration.

4- Chrysanthemum

a. If eaten, the Chrysanthemum plant may cause excessive drooling and gastrointestinal upset that could lead to diarrhea.  If a large amount of the plant is eaten, depression may occur, as well as ataxia.

5- Buckeye

a. If our state tree’s wonderful nut is ingested by your pet, you may see signs including vomiting and diarrhea, depression or excitement, and ataxia.

6- Daffodils

a. This flower contains various properties that may cause severe vomiting in your pet.  Other signs of ingestion includes abdominal pain, diarrhea, and in some cases cardiac arrhythmias – or abnormal patterns in the heart rate.

7- Oleander (indoor plant for hardiness Zone 5 within Ohio)

a.If this shrub is ingested by your pet, you may see some physical signs including severe vomiting, hypothermia, bradycardia- or slow heart rate, and in serious cases, death.

8- Autumn Crocus

a. If this plant is ingested, consequences may result in general gastrointestinal upset including blood vomiting, bloody diarrhea, shock and multi-organ damage.  Signs of ingestion of this plant may be seen right away, but also may take a few days to develop.

b. The corm of this plant also has potential dermal toxicity. Do not let children handle the corms of this plant.

9- Azalea/Rhododendron

a. Ingestion of this plant species may produce vomiting, hyper salivation, diarrhea, and depression to the central nervous system.  If a high amount of the plant is ingested, there may be cardiovascular consequences that occur that could potentially result in death.

10- Amaryllis (indoor plant for hardiness Zone 5 within Ohio)

a. This plant is regularly found in gardens and if ingested by your pet, could cause vomiting, depression, abdominal pain, hyper salivation and lack of eating as well.

So don’t fear fellow green thumbs! This coming spring, create a masterpiece in your front yard or construct a beautiful bouquet for a loved one, but just remember – those wonderful smells that we have come to love are exponentially amplified and simply irresistible to our furry friends.  Be informed of what you are planting so you and yours, including your pets- can enjoy the natural beauty of plants!

If you want more information on these plants and other possible toxic plant materials, feel free to call Buck & Sons Landscape Service Inc.   If you witness or suspect that your pet has ingested any of the previous substances, please contact your local veterinarian.

By Aaron Buck, student – University of Illinois, College of Veterinary Medicine

Special thanks to Dr. Michael Biehl and The University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine, as well as the ASPCA for the information throughout this piece.

Animal Poison Control Center. ASPCA. Web. 1 Sept. 2011. <http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/>.

The oldest labyrinth known is that of Crete, which according to Greek mythology was built by a skilled craftsman, Daedalus, to contain the part-man, part-bull Minotaur.  Labyrinths have existed around the world for well over 4,000 years and have long been used to create a calm, contemplative atmosphere.    They have played an important role in many ancient cultures including that of the Greeks, Celts, Mayans, and Native Americans.  It is even speculated by some that the Serpent Mounds created by the Adena Indians right here in Ohio around 500 A.D., were created as a “Needle-and-Thread” form labyrinth.

Later, in the Middle Ages, labyrinths were placed in many churches to symbolize a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.  Travel was not quite as easy in those days as it is today, so instead of an actual trip to Jerusalem that could take months and cost a small fortune, many Christians would make a symbolic pilgrimage by walking the path, or even crawling on their knees, while praying.  The oldest Christian labyrinth, constructed in 328 A.D., is a mosaic in the Basilica of San Reparatus near Orleansville, Algeria. Rather than the more familiar spiral pattern we often see today, this labyrinth was a square “Roman-Style” pattern.  This is the pattern that you will soon see taking shape in the Healing Garden.  Traditionally upon entering a labyrinth, you are entering a sacred space and time. Whether you physically walk the path or simply follow it with your eyes, the labyrinth can be used as a path for prayer and meditation.

The sight and sound of the central water feature, the many seating areas, and the soft landscape plantings are all designed to help create a place of calm and peace.  Whether you are awaiting surgery for you or a loved one, anticipating the birth of a child, or working to recover from a physical illness or injury; we know that the visitors of Dublin Methodist Hospital come here with a wide array of hopes, fears, thoughts, and emotions.  While the doctors and staff of Dublin Methodist Hospital work to heal your body, it is our hope that we are creating a space where all patients and visitors can comfortably spend time in peaceful reflection, healing their mind and soul.